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This article was co-written by Jamie Freyer, DVM. Dr. Jamie Freyer is a licensed veterinarian in Washington. With over 10 years of clinical and clinical experience, she specializes in veterinary medicine and surgery, animal behavior and animal genetics. Dr. Freyer holds a bachelor’s degree in life sciences from the University of Portland and a veterinarian degree from Oregon State University.
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With the increasing number of hares in urban areas, the probability of detecting a rabbit hole is higher than ever. Unfortunately, nests are often left unattended, and young hares removed by humans are unlikely to survive without the help of a veterinarian or skilled wildlife officer. high care. In many countries, it is illegal to care for hares, unless you are a licensed conservation worker. If you need to take care of baby rabbits in the meantime, take them to the vet or wildlife conservation officer, then you should read this article for more help.
Steps
Prepare Habitat for Rabbits
- Wild cottontail (USA) under-weaned often have a white spot on the forehead. Others are born without spots. Some rabbits will remain “spotted” for the rest of their lives, and others will lose them after adulthood. The presence or absence of spots is not necessarily evidence of the rabbit’s age or need for care.
- In the case of baby rabbits being removed to avoid a dangerous situation (such as avoiding predators), this is only a temporary measure. Keep the baby rabbits in a safe, quiet place until the danger has passed, then return them to the area where they were found. The mother rabbit will not abandon the baby rabbit if it smells human. This is the best chance for the rabbit to survive. However, if a baby hare is attacked by a cat, any infected wound caused by a claw or tooth will KILL the baby rabbit within a few days. You need to take them to a wildlife conservation officer or veterinarian to provide rabbit-safe antibiotics.
- Line a circular “nest” inside the hay for the baby rabbits. You can line it with a real litter or a domestic rabbit’s fur. Do not use the fur of other animals, especially carnivores.
- If you don’t have rabbit fur, you can line the nest with a paper towel or soft cloth in a thick layer.
- Place a heating pad, hot bottom layer, or incubator under the side of the nest to keep warm. Only warm one side of the box so the baby can move away if it feels too hot. [1] X Research Source
- Avoid petting the baby rabbit too much. This can stress them out from being overly disturbed and die. [2] X Research Source
- Spread some fur, tissue, velvet or cloth over the rabbit to keep it warm and safe.
- Note that hares can transmit disease to domestic rabbits. Therefore, you should adopt careful hygiene procedures after touching hares, or their droppings, especially if you have several other rabbits.
Plan to feed the Rabbit
- When caring for hares, you need to constantly feed them hay, water and fresh vegetables, just like in the wild. Even young rabbits can nibble on greens and hay.
- At first, baby rabbits left alone often do not get enough water. You need to give them Gatorade Lite instead of Pedialyte for the first few feedings. Pedialyte is good for most species, but provides too much starch for rabbits.
- Most conservationists usually feed rabbits a mixture of KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) and Multi-Milk, which is available at the store in the sanctuary. You should add Probiotics to the mix, if any. This mixture needs to be thickened because the mother’s milk is thicker than most other small mammals. This means you need to mix about 3 parts solids (by volume) and 4 parts distilled water.
- Do not warm the mixture directly, instead warm it in a water bath: boil warm water and place the bottle of mixed milk in it. Use the included pipette or the small Miracle nipple syringe that comes with it. Use a 2.5 cc syringe for newborn rabbits and switch to a 5 cc syringe as the rabbit’s stomach capacity increases. Hold the baby rabbit in a sitting position so it doesn’t choke! You’ll need a tissue by your side to QUICKLY dry the milk that gets into your rabbit’s nostrils!
- ABSOLUTELY DO NOT give rabbits cow’s milk. Cow’s milk is meant for young calves, not rabbits.
- Newborn to one week of age: 2-2.5 cc/ml per feeding, twice daily
- 1-2 weeks old: 5-7 cc/ml per feeding, twice daily (less if rabbits are very young)
- 2-3 weeks old: 7-13 cc/ml per feeding, twice daily (less if rabbits are very young)
- When your rabbit is 2-3 weeks old, you can feed them ‘cat’s tail grass’, oat grass pellets and water (add fresh greens for the hare)
- 3-6 weeks old: 13-15cc/ml per feeding, twice daily (less if rabbits are very young).
Feeding Newborn Rabbits
- Tilt the rabbit’s head back slightly and insert the nipple into the side teeth. You can’t put a nipple between their front teeth.
- After the nipple is in the middle of the lateral teeth, continue to move slowly forward.
- Gently twist the bottle so that the milk comes out in a small amount.
- Within minutes, the baby rabbit will start sucking on the nipple.
- Continue to feed baby rabbits with milk powder for about 3-4 days, twice daily, with the last feeding in the evening as the mother rabbit’s habit.
Bring Rabbit Outdoors
- Put the rabbit in a protective steel cage. You need to keep an eye on them to keep them safe from enemies and other dangerous situations.
- Watch the baby rabbit’s actions carefully. They should start eating and drinking without help.
- Check the humidity in the rabbit’s cage. You need to add new formula instead of spilled milk to ensure they are fully absorbed.
- Fill with powdered milk and water in the evening and in the morning. You should pay attention to the amount you put in so that the rabbit does not eat too much.
- Do not overfill the tray near the rabbit’s cage as they can drown. [9] X Research Source
- Fresh grass
- Hay
- A piece of bread
- Clover
- Cat tail grass
- Sliced Apples
- Oat
Moving Rabbit Out into Nature
- Move the cage to different points in the yard so that the rabbit can access new plants regularly.
- Continue to provide plants other than grass.
- In the case of rabbits that are not yet self-sufficient, you can keep them for a little longer, but they should not be allowed to mature in captivity.
Advice
- Always feed newborn rabbits at the same place. They will then begin to associate the place with the food, making each session easier than the previous.
- If you can’t remember which rabbit you’ve fed, you can draw small dots with nail polish on the tips of each rabbit’s ears. Then you should feed them in a certain order (such as the order of colors in a rainbow).
- Use a window covering to cover the roof of the barn. The weight and ease of release make it easy to get up and down, but the rabbit can’t knock the film to the ground.
- You need to make sure the rabbit can breathe. If you put them in a box with a tight-fitting lid, you’ll need to poke holes in them to let air in.
- Keep your rabbit’s habitat quiet and avoid human contact.
- You should not name rabbits because then you will become attached to them, and make you want to keep them around.
- Orphaned newborn rabbits, when cared for by humans, still have a mortality rate of up to 90%. So you should not become too attached and take care of them gently and slowly. [12] X Research Source
- Keep quiet near the rabbit. Rabbits are easily frightened by loud sounds.
- Keep rabbits safe and out of reach of other animals.
Warning
- Don’t give your rabbit too hot milk. They will not drink hot or sour milk.
- Do not give your rabbit spinach, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, or similar foods. These foods can cause diarrhea or gas. Rabbits can’t digest gas, so this group of vegetables will bloat their stomachs!
- Be especially careful when dealing with wild animals. They can carry many pathogens.
- Adjust the heat source used for the incubator not to overheat and not to set the rabbit house on fire.
- Wild animals should not be kept in captivity for longer than is necessary to care for them.
- Never feed a rabbit with carrots. Rabbits never eat carrots in the wild, so you shouldn’t feed them in captivity either.
Things you need
- Wooden or plastic box with one side high
- Clean and soft soil
- Clean cattail grass
- Disinfected animal hair (or tissue)
- Nursery, heating pad or hot soil layer
- Leather gloves
- Glass bottle
- Milk bottle
- Small rubber nipples
- Milk
- Cereal for newborn rabbits
- Cotton towels
- Purdah
- Wire cage (with canopy)
- Clover (or cattail)
- Oat
- Bread
- Bowl of water
This article was co-written by Jamie Freyer, DVM. Dr. Jamie Freyer is a licensed veterinarian in Washington. With over 10 years of clinical and clinical experience, she specializes in veterinary medicine and surgery, animal behavior and animal genetics. Dr. Freyer holds a bachelor’s degree in life sciences from the University of Portland and a veterinarian degree from Oregon State University.
This article has been viewed 4,603 times.
With the increasing number of hares in urban areas, the probability of detecting a rabbit hole is higher than ever. Unfortunately, nests are often left unattended, and young hares removed by humans are unlikely to survive without the help of a veterinarian or skilled wildlife officer. high care. In many countries, it is illegal to care for hares, unless you are a licensed conservation worker. If you need to take care of baby rabbits in the meantime, take them to the vet or wildlife conservation officer, then you should read this article for more help.
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