How to Perm Curly Hair Permanently

Permanent curling is a chemical method of curling hair to make hair more frizzy and bouncy. The curling process consists of two parts: wrapping the hair in a roller and applying chemicals. Curling time can take hours, but the results are well worth it.

Table of Contents

Hair preparation and parting

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Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo. This step will help wash away the oil or substances on the hair, creating a clean hair base before curling. However, do not use conditioner, otherwise the curling iron will not absorb well. Pat your hair dry with a soft towel or an old t-shirt after washing. ^{[1] X Research Source}

A protein-rich hair shampoo is also a great choice.
Slightly damp hair is fine, but you need to remember not to get soggy.
Comb your hair before washing it with a hairbrush, and use a wide-tooth comb to comb it after you wash it.

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Wear a scarf around your neck, wear a nylon cape, and wear gloves. You don’t want the curling iron to get on your skin, so be careful. Wrap a scarf around your neck first, then put on a cape as you would if you were going to dye your hair, and finally put on nylon or vinyl gloves. ^{[2] X Research Source}

You can buy gowns and gloves at salons and beauty stores.
The gown must be of a nylon material to prevent the perm from seeping through.
It’s also a good idea to wear old clothes that you’re not afraid of getting dirty.

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Divide your hair into 3 sections, one in the middle and two on the sides. Use the sharp end of the comb to part the hair into two parts on both sides of the head and one part on the front. The middle section of hair will start from the forehead and end at the nape. Twist the 2 sides of the hair into a bun to avoid entanglement.

The middle section of hair needs to be a bit narrower than the roller. This width will vary.
Consider splitting the top section of hair in half, then also twisting the top/front hair into a bun.

Hair wrap

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Take a thin section of hair in the middle of your head. Use the end of a sharp comb to separate a thin section of hair from the middle section. Stretch the hair so that it is perpendicular to the head. Take a section of hair no wider than the diameter of the roller you plan to use, as if you wrap too much hair the result will be loose curls.

You can start from the hairline at the front or back of the head. If you’re starting from the back of your head, you’ll have to go back and do it with the front section of hair, once you’ve reached the nape of your neck.

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Fold the ponytail to the end of the section of hair. Place a piece of hair wrap close to the hair so that half of the paper sticks out. Fold the excess paper under the hair to clip the hair in the middle, then slide the hair wrap towards the ends of the hair.

You can fold a few pieces of paper in half first. That way, you’ll just slide over the edge of the hair and pull down.

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Wrap your hair around the hair roller. Place the end of the section of hair on top of a hair roller. Wrap your hair around the roller until it reaches your scalp, then reattach the roller. ^{[3] X Research Sources}

Choose a roller size that matches your desired curl size. Remember that the larger the roller, the larger and looser the curls will be.
Wrap your hair from top to bottom, away from your forehead and toward the nape of your neck.

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Repeat the above process for the entire middle section of hair. If starting from the back of the head, you need to wrap down the nape of the neck first, then go back and do the front part. If starting from the hairline, simply wrap it down the nape of your neck.

Make sure all the hair in the middle is wrapped neatly into the roller.

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Wrap 2 rows of hair rollers for each side. Pick a side to get started and get everything ready. Take a section of hair along the back of the ear and twist the front section into a bun. Wrap more hair rollers horizontally in a vertical row, then wrap the front section of hair (the part in front of the ears). ^{[4] X Research Sources}

The ends of the rollers should touch each other – including the side and center curls.
Start wrapping the pack from the top of the side section of hair, just below the center section of hair, and end at the hairline.
By this time, the hair may begin to dry out when wrapped. If this happens, simply spray your hair with water to make it easier to curl.

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Wrap the cotton bandage around the hairline and tuck it underneath the rollers. This step is very important, because you need to shield your skin from the curling agent. You can buy cotton gauze bandages online or at beauty supply stores, then wrap it around the hairline and tuck it underneath the rollers. ^{[5] X Research Sources}

Cotton bandages are not cloth but look like a long strip of cotton wool, similar to what you see at nail salons.

Apply hair curler

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Buy a curling iron based on your hair type and health. There are two types of curling irons: alkaline type and acid type. Depending on your hair type, you need to choose one of these two types of curling irons. If you choose the wrong one, you can get different results – in some cases, damage to your hair.

Choose lye if your hair is Asian, coarse, fine, hard to absorb, or less elastic.
Choose an acid solution if your hair is: damaged, brittle, highlighted, colored, or highly elastic.
Go to a hair salon if your hair is completely dyed or damaged, or if your hair is African-American. Choose a hairstylist who specializes in treating your hair type. Ask friends and family to recommend a good hair salon, or search online for a hair salon in the area.

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Use a pin to prick the tip of the curling iron. The curling solution comes in a squeezable plastic bottle. Although it is possible to cut off the top of the vial, it is better to prick it with a needle such as a pin or cap. That way it will be easier for you to manipulate. ^{[6] X Research Source}

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Apply the medication to the rollers using small circular motions. Choose a section of hair to start with: the middle, the left or the right. Place the vial over the edge of the rollers and begin squeezing the medicine in small circular motions. Apply the tint to each strand of hair until an entire section is complete, then move on to the next section. Use up all the solution in the vial. ^{[7] X Research Sources}

Don’t worry if you put the medicine on the roller. Gravity will pull the solution down to the bottom of the roller.

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Every few minutes, remove the curls to see if your hair has curled into an S shape. First, you need to wait 5 minutes, then choose a roller and take it off a bit. See if the curls have curled into a tight S shape. If not, re-wrap the curls. Check back in 2 minutes. If you still can’t see your hair in an S shape, wrap it up and check every minute until it’s satisfactory. ^{[8] X Research Sources}

Don’t wait for 10-15 minutes to check your hair, or your hair is at risk of damage. Everyone’s hair treatment process is different.
Once the curl has formed an S shape, you can move on to the next step.

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Rinse your hair with water for 3 minutes without removing the roller. This step is very important. You need to leave the hair rollers in place, lower your head over the sink or stand in the shower and let the water run for 3 minutes. ^{[9] X Research Source}

Cotton bandages will absorb water, so you need to remove them when you’re done rinsing.
If your hair is very thick, you need to let the water run between the rollers for a few seconds to make sure the curling solution is rinsed out.

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Wait for the hair to dry while leaving the hair roller on the head. Letting your hair dry naturally is best, but if you’re in a hurry, you can use a hair dryer to let it dry quickly. The hair rollers have not been removed at this time. ^{[10] X Research Source}

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Apply a chemical neutralizer (also known as a stamping agent, which stops the effects of the hair curler), wait 10 minutes, then rinse with water for 3 minutes. The action of using a stamping agent is similar to using a curling iron. Since the stamping agent is milder, you can wait 10 minutes without checking your hair. When the 10 minutes are up, drain the water for 3 minutes. ^{[11] X Research Source}

Leave the hair roller in place during the whole process.

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Wait for the hair to dry, then remove the roller. As above, letting your hair dry naturally is better, but you can also use a hair dryer if needed. Once you have removed the rollers, leave your hair as it is. Do not brush your hair to prevent it from straightening back.

You should only use your hands to lightly fix the curls.

Curly hair care

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Wait 3 days after perm to wash your hair. This may sound difficult, but it is very important. Curly hair doesn’t need to be washed as often when it’s new. Moreover, if you wash your hair too soon, your construction will be ruined; curls will stretch back. ^{[12] X Research Source}

After 3 days, you can wash your hair twice a week.

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Use shampoos and conditioners made specifically for chemically treated hair. These products will keep your hair soft and smooth, and hold curls for longer. Remember to use conditioner after every wash; Switch to an intensive conditioner from time to time. Natural intensive conditioners like argan oil are a good choice. ^{[13] X Research Source}

Moisturizing products that hold frizz are a great option.
Do not use products containing silicone and alcohol. Silicone will make your hair greasy, and alcohol will dry it out. ^{[14] X Research Source}

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Do not style or comb your hair with a hairbrush for 1 week. You can gently brush your hair with your fingers or use a wide-tooth comb, but wait a week before you can use a hairbrush. More importantly, you should leave your hair as it is for the entire week, i.e. no curls, straightens, high ties, braids, etc. ^{[15] X Research Source}

Use a silk scarf to tie your hair when you go to bed to help keep the curls from getting tangled.

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Limit heat styling, including blow-drying and straightening. Whenever possible, let your hair dry naturally. If you must use a hair dryer, wait until your hair is 90% dry, then blow dry with a diffuser. Avoid straightening your hair if possible. ^{[16] X Research Source}

If you have to straighten your hair, use a heat-resistant product and keep it on low heat.

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Wait at least 2 weeks before dyeing your hair again. If you dye your hair too soon, not only is your hair at risk of further damage, but curls can also be lost. However, once the 2 weeks are up, you can treat your hair as you normally would; you can dye your hair, bleach your hair, even dye highlights. ^{[17] X Research Source}

Remember that bleaching and dyeing your hair is not recommended. The curling process is already strong, bleaching or highlighting is equally strong, and this will cause further damage to the hair.
Some stylists recommend waiting 1 month before dyeing, bleaching, or highlighting. ^{[18] X Research Sources}

Advice

If your hair has a lot of split ends, you should trim your hair first. Hair will be harder to trim after curling.
Spray a volumizing product at the roots as the hair grows out, then blow-dry the hair close to the scalp to create volume.
Do not rest your head on any surface immediately after curling, as the hair will be permanently imprinted.
When you go to the hair salon, make it clear what you want, in as much detail as possible. Bring a photo from a magazine or save it to your phone for the stylist to see so they know what you mean.
Red hair is often difficult to absorb, so you must use a stronger solution. You should consult an experienced stylist before purchasing any product.

Warning

Curling your hair too much will make your hair damaged, brittle and thin. Talk to a professional hairstylist when this happens.
If your scalp burns while using the curling iron, wash off the solution immediately.

Things you need

Deep Cleansing Shampoo
Hair curlers (curling and stamping pills)
Old clothes
Old towels
Nylon Robe
Nylon Gloves
Clip
25 to 35 hair rollers
25 to 35 hair wraps

Steps