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This article was co-written by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS. Elliott is a veterinarian with more than thirty years of experience in veterinary surgery and pet treatment. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary surgeon. She has worked at a veterinary clinic in her hometown for more than 20 years.
This article has been viewed 72,235 times.
White spot disease, also known as ich disease, is a parasitic infection that most aquarists face from time to time. White spot disease kills more fish than any other disease. This disease mostly occurs in aquarium fish due to close contact with other fish and the stress of living in the tank, unlike fish that live in open water. Ich disease can occur in both saltwater and freshwater tropical fish, requiring different methods to treat and handle the fish’s ecosystem and habitat.
Steps
Understanding how the ich . parasite works
- In freshwater environments, the ich parasite is known as ichthyophthiriasis . [1] X Research Source
- In saltwater environments, ich are called cryptocaryon irritans and are often confused with other parasites that cause white spots. Saltwater ich have a longer reproductive cycle than freshwater ich but only have 12-18 hours to find a host before dying, unlike freshwater ich, which can live up to 48 hours outside of a host.
- Inappropriate temperature and poor quality water
- Other creatures living in the tank
- New creature arrived
- Improper diet
- How to transport and handle fish during the move
- The indoor environment, especially the house with a lot of loud noises, door knocking, door shaking, people or objects constantly moving around the aquarium
- White spots are present on the body and gills of the fish. These spots can stick together to form white patches. Sometimes, ich only appear on the gills of fish.
- Excessive movement. The fish may rub against plants or rocks in the tank more to try to dislodge the parasites or due to itching.
- Fin closed. Fish always close their fins close to themselves instead of spreading freely. [3] X Research Sources
- Heavy breathing. If the fish come to the surface to take a bite or often hang around near the filter in the tank, they are probably suffering from a lack of oxygen. The ich parasite clings to the gills of fish, making it difficult for the fish to absorb oxygen in the water.
- Anorexia. If the fish doesn’t eat or spits out the food, it’s a sign of stress and illness.
- Hiding behavior. Animals often hide when they feel sick, and any change in behavior is often a sign of stress or illness. Fish may hide in decorative objects or may not be as active as usual.
- Trophont stage: During this stage, ich parasites can be seen on the fish. They burrow under the fish’s mucus and form a protective capsule that blocks chemicals and neutralizes drugs. In a typical aquarium with a temperature of 24 – 27ºC, the trophont stage, also known as the parasitic stage, will take place for several days before the cysts have fully developed and left the fish.
- Tomont or tomite stage: During this stage, treatment can be effective. Parasites in this period, also called tomont, will float for many hours in the water until they attach themselves to a plant or another surface. Once they have found something to cling to, they will begin to rapidly divide or multiply within the capsule. A few days later, these cysts will burst, and the newly formed organisms will begin to swim in search of a new host. Freshwater tomont can multiply very quickly in 8 days, while saltwater tomont can take 3 to 28 days to divide.
- Thermonts or swarmer stage: Freshwater swamers will have to find a host (fish) within 48 hours or they will die, while saltwater swamers only have 12-18 hours to find a host. So, one way to completely get rid of ich in an aquarium is to leave the tank empty for 1 or 2 weeks.
- Never increase the temperature in the water suddenly. This can cause fish stress and some fish cannot tolerate high temperatures.
- Most tropical fish can tolerate temperatures up to about 30ºC. You should always consult a tropical fish specialist to find out what temperature they can tolerate.
Treatments are easy
- Make sure the other fish in the tank can withstand this temperature before proceeding to increase the temperature.
- If your fish can tolerate temperatures higher than 30ºC, you can raise the temperature in the water to 32ºC for 3-4 days, then drop it to 30ºC for another 10 days.
- Make sure the aquarium has enough oxygen or is aerated, as oxygen levels will be less when the water is warmer.
- During this time, you can treat the water with salt and medicine every day.
- Always make sure the fish can withstand high water temperatures. Observe the fish’s reaction when slowly raising the temperature or find out how high your fish can handle the heat.
- Lower the water level so that the filtered water hits the water’s surface, creating more oxygen.
- Place more aerators in the tank or move them closer to the surface of the water.
- Use an air bubble disc to create a larger stream of bubbles. [4] X Research Sources
- Use a pump to not only increase oxygen levels, but also improve water flow in the tank. [5] X Research Sources
Moderate treatments
- Use salt specifically for fish, do not use table salt because table salt is not de-iodized.
- Never use the drug with salt and high heat, because the salt and medicine can react and reduce the amount of oxygen in the tank.
- Change 25% of the water in the tank every few days and add only as much salt as the amount of water removed. However, when the treatment is done, change part of the water without adding salt.
- If the water change causes stress on the fish, you should reduce the amount of water changed and the frequency of water changes.
Difficulty level treatments
- Always change the water and vacuum the gravel before adding the medicine to the water. The drug will be more effective if the water is clean and free of other dissolved organics or nitrates.
- Always remove activated carbon from the filter, as activated carbon can neutralize or prevent drug absorption in the aquarium.
- Always follow the instructions on the product label.
- Remove activated charcoal from the filter, as it can neutralize or prevent drug absorption
- Copper will combine with calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate in rocks, sand and gravel, so make sure you only use copper in aquariums that don’t have these materials.
- Copper is highly toxic to invertebrates, corals and plants. You need to separate these organisms and dispose of them using other safe methods.
- Malachite green: Similar to chemotherapy in humans, malachite blue has the effect of destroying the ability of cells to produce energy, a key factor for metabolism. This chemical does not distinguish fish cells from those of the ich parasite.
- Formalin: Formalin destroys microorganisms by reacting with the proteins and nucleic acids of the cell, altering the function and structure of the cell and is commonly used to preserve organisms. This substance can damage filtration systems, reduce oxygen levels and kill invertebrates or fragile fish.
Prevention of parasites ich
- Some fish have very strong immune systems and may act as only disease carriers. When you introduce an ich intermediate, you are exposing your tank’s critters, which may not have as strong a immune system as your newly purchased fish.
- When placing newly purchased fish in a quarantine tank or any other tank, never pour all the water in the fish container into the tank. This reduces the risk of the tank becoming contaminated with tomite.
- If you can’t afford a lot of racquets, sponges and cleaning supplies, let the tools dry completely before using them in another tank. The ich parasite cannot survive in a dry environment.
Advice
- Replace or remove sand, gravel, rocks and other decorations from the tank when treating ich parasites. They often like to cling to surfaces to multiply themselves. Wash and dry these items to remove any traces of the ich parasite.
- Once you have completed the medication or salt treatment and all signs of disease have disappeared, slowly change the aquarium water until you are sure the medicine in the tank is gone. Prolonged exposure to chemicals can be stressful and harmful to fish.
- If you are serious about keeping fish, buy a microscope and take a slime sample of the fish to identify white spot disease. There are many other parasites that can also cause rubbing, fin closure, and other symptoms. White spot treatments may not be effective in these cases. For best results, you need to determine the parasite species before treatment.
This article was co-written by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS. Elliott is a veterinarian with more than thirty years of experience in veterinary surgery and pet treatment. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary surgeon. She has worked at a veterinary clinic in her hometown for more than 20 years.
This article has been viewed 72,235 times.
White spot disease, also known as ich disease, is a parasitic infection that most aquarists face from time to time. White spot disease kills more fish than any other disease. This disease mostly occurs in aquarium fish due to close contact with other fish and the stress of living in the tank, unlike fish that live in open water. Ich disease can occur in both saltwater and freshwater tropical fish, requiring different methods to treat and handle the fish’s ecosystem and habitat.
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