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This article was co-written by Alessandra Mendes. Alessandra Mendes is a cleaning expert and founder of Cleaning Glow. With 10 years of experience, Alessandra and her team specialize in providing residential cleaning services in the San Francisco Bay Area. All members of Cleaning Glow are background checked.
There are 12 references cited in this article that you can view at the bottom of the page.
This article has been viewed 2,975 times.
Acid cleaning of concrete is the process of preparing concrete so that the coating can adhere to the concrete surface. You can also use low concentration acid to remove white minerals (bloom) and stubborn dirt. Acid washing of concrete is dangerous to people, plants and metal objects, especially when working indoors where toxic gases can accumulate.
Do not confuse this process with the acid staining process, i.e. staining the concrete. Concrete cleaning is not recommended before staining the concrete. [1] X Research Source
Steps
Prepare
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Remove dirt and grease. Sweep or vacuum up dirt on concrete. If there are grease stains, you need to clean them with a degreaser or alkali remover. [2] X Research Source Drain the water thoroughly.
- If there are water droplets on the concrete surface, the acid wash process may not be as effective as it should be. [3] X Research Source The degreasing step can solve this problem.
- You should not use sodium phosphate (TSP) cleaners. Residual chemicals can react violently with acids and produce dangerous gases. [4] X Research Sources
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Choose acid. You can choose cleaning products based on your experience and work location: [5] X Research Source
- The safest sulfamic acid that non-specialists should use.
- Phosphoric acid produces fewer gases. You should use this acid in rooms with stainless steel or other non-acid-resistant metals. This is also a good choice if you’re just rinsing off the minerals.
- Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is the most dangerous and produces strong gases. This acid should only be used outdoors and by professionals.
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Observe safety instructions. The acids above are a few of the most dangerous household chemicals. Be sure to wear acid-resistant gloves, rubber boots, and chemical-vapor goggles. [6] X Research Source Protect lungs with a respirator with acid filter and use a fan to improve ventilation if necessary. [7] X Research Source Protect exposed skin with well-fitting clothing, preferably with a visor and a PVC or Butyl jacket or apron. [8] X Research Sources[9] X Research Sources
- Have water nearby to wash off chemicals on skin or clothing. Showers and eyewashes are ideal.
- Have baking soda or horticultural lime on hand to neutralize the acid spilled on the soil. [10] X Research Source
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Pour the acid into the water in a plastic bucket or plastic bucket. Unlike metals, most common plastics are resistant to acids at this concentration. [11] X Research Source To avoid a violent chemical reaction, fill the bucket with water first, then slowly pour in the acid. [12] X Research Source It is preferable to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the acid bottle over the instructions below. The following general ratios are appropriate for some but not all mixtures:
- Sulfamic acid: 120 g powder or acid crystals per 1 liter of water. [13] X Research Source
- Phosphoric Acid: Dilute at a concentration of 20–40%. [14] X Research Source
- Muriatic Acid: Mix 3-4 parts water to 1 part acid or follow product label instructions for a concentration of 10% (15% for smooth, hard concrete). [15] X Research Source
- These solutions are used to clean concrete. If you only want to remove minerals (bloom), use a lower concentration mixture (10:1 or 16:1 for muriatic acid). [16] X Research Source
Wash concrete with acid
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Water the entire area. Spray water on concrete until it is damp but not puddled. [17] X Research Source You also need to wet surrounding objects such as trees, shrubs, walls, doors, door frames, cabinets, and floor mats. Move any nearby furniture to another place.
- You must keep the concrete wet during the acid wash. Divide the large area into sections or water occasionally to prevent the concrete from drying out.
- Protect asphalt, plaster and tarmac surfaces with plastic cloth or other shielding. [18] X Research Sources
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Apply acid to the concrete surface. Use a plastic watering can to water the concrete with acid, remember to water low to the ground. Water in small portions, starting with a test first on an inconspicuous area. Plastic can corrode, sometimes in as little as an hour, so you need to have plenty of watering cans ready to replace. [19] X Research source . Read the instructions on the label to determine how much acid to mix, or follow these instructions:
- Sulfamic acid: 1 liter per 28 m2. [20] X Research Sources
- Phosphoric acid: 3.8 liters per 45-250 m2 for cleaning minerals. [21] X Research Source
- Muriatic acid: 4.5 liters per 5 m2. [22] X Research Source
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Sweep acid on concrete. Immediately after applying acid on the concrete, use a long-handled brush or paintbrush to spread the acid in an even layer. [23] X Research Sources With a large area, you should have additional help, one person using the floor cleaner, the other sweeping acid into the corners and walls. [24] X Research Sources
- Make sure the floor and surrounding objects do not dry out when you water the acid. You may need to spray frequently.
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Let the acid infuse for a few minutes. Wait 5-10 minutes for the acid to soak into the concrete. [25] X Research Source If you only want to remove the white minerals, wait until you see the minerals come off the concrete (usually within a few minutes). [26] X Research Source
Wash concrete
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Drain the water thoroughly. Before the acid dries, scrub with a long-handled paintbrush while rinsing with plenty of water. Acids that stay on the concrete for too long can damage the concrete.
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Neutralize acids. Mix 1 cup of baking soda, horticultural lime, or household ammonia with 4 quarts of water (about 250 ml per 4 quarts of water), or follow the instructions on the acid-neutralizing product. Scrub the concrete surface and let it soak for at least 10 minutes to neutralize all the acids. [27] X Research Source Pay special attention to the edges and depressions on the concrete surface.
- By this time, the acid-washed concrete surface should have a sandpaper-like uniform texture with medium roughness. If the concrete surface is smoother or there are still white minerals, you need to rinse with acid again.
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Drain the water several times. Even after the acid has been neutralized, the liquid remaining on the concrete surface can still leave white powdery streaks after it dries. Spray water on the concrete, scrub and repeat several times to prevent this phenomenon. Use a water vacuum for a final rinse or sweep down the drain.
- Use a faucet for acid wash instead of a pressure washer. Pressure washers can push acids deeper into concrete surfaces. [28] X Research Sources
- To be on the safe side, it’s a good idea to test after your last flush with a pH test kit. If the pH is below 6.0, it means too much acid and you need to wash the floor again. (Less common, a test result above 9.0 indicates that you have over-watered the neutralizer.) [29] X Research Source
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Treat residual acid. If you have unused acid solution, pour it slowly into a large bucket containing half a bucket of the neutralizing solution you used earlier. Slowly stir in more acids and alkalis as needed until the mixture stops bubbling. Once the acid has been neutralized, you can pour it down the sink or drain. [30] X Source of study Use running water to clean tools and clothing that come into contact with acids.
- If you don’t plan on using the rest of the pure acid, you can just throw it away. Stored acids can cause serious harm due to corrosive gases and the risk of spills.
Advice
- Get help if you can. The concrete cleaning process will be faster if you scrub the floor while someone else is constantly spraying water.
- Let the concrete dry for at least 2 days before applying the chemical coating to the concrete surface (waiting time will be longer in humid, cool or poorly ventilated conditions). Even if the surface looks dry, the moisture underneath can still interfere with the chemical coating the concrete surface. [31] X Research Source
Warning
- Never pour water into the acid. You should always pour the acid into the water to prevent dangerous splashes of acid, then slowly stir the solution.
- Keep the entire area wet during work. This will prevent acids from permanently damaging the materials. Muriatic acid not only corrodes concrete, but also damages metals, wood, and synthetic materials such as carpets.
- Keep children and pets out of the work area.
Things you need
- Water tap
- Sulfamic acid, phosphoric acid, or muriatic acid
- Bucket with a capacity of 20 liters
- Water
- Long stirrup (a wooden stick is fine)
- At least two plastic sprayers or watering cans
- Paint brush or floor cleaner
- Neutralizing solution, horticultural lime, baking soda or household ammonia
- Broom
- Water vacuum cleaner
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This article was co-written by Alessandra Mendes. Alessandra Mendes is a cleaning expert and founder of Cleaning Glow. With 10 years of experience, Alessandra and her team specialize in providing residential cleaning services in the San Francisco Bay Area. All members of Cleaning Glow are background checked.
There are 12 references cited in this article that you can view at the bottom of the page.
This article has been viewed 2,975 times.
Acid cleaning of concrete is the process of preparing concrete so that the coating can adhere to the concrete surface. You can also use low concentration acid to remove white minerals (bloom) and stubborn dirt. Acid washing of concrete is dangerous to people, plants and metal objects, especially when working indoors where toxic gases can accumulate.
Do not confuse this process with the acid staining process, i.e. staining the concrete. Concrete cleaning is not recommended before staining the concrete. [1] X Research Source
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